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Rap #5 down to that ledge. Don't stop at the slings about 1/2 way
down if you have 200 foot ropes. This is long 200 foot rap.
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Rap #6, look for red slings to mark them. Off to right. You have to come
totally off rap and walk over to them. Very safe.
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Had to walk away from rap to rap station #6.
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FINALLY the ground. Rap #6 is 200 foot. About 1 hour to rap. Down by
12 noon.
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Next day we went up the 5.9R route on the left arete. It was
FANTASTIC, much better than the classic. It really wasn't
an R pitch in it anyways and the 5.9 parts were not scary, heck
I led one of them. There is one belay that is a bit scary ( i didn't
photo graph, sorry) on the south side, where you should only use
nuts on a a 6 foot high flake with a great directional at feet. Leader
has to get in scetchy gear for first 25 feet but only on 5.7-5.8.
Pitch #1. 5.3 scramble again 200+ foot to first giant ledge.
Pitch #2 starts about 50 left on SW arete
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Looking back at 50 foot traverse to arete
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Pitch #8: Easy for 5.9 lots of pro and handholds. Up to EAST face
ledge about 100 feet
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